Bistronome
In addition to nine Michelin-starred restaurants, the 2023 editions of the Bib Gourmand Benelux Michelin Guide confirm that the Grand Duchy is a conducive environment for culinary creation. Demonstrating avant-garde excellence, Luxembourg now boasts eight Bib Gourmand restaurants each with their own special identity.
We had the pleasure of visiting restauranteur Philippe L’Hopital once again at his domain, Bistronome, in Strassen. A magnum opus, with an esteemed Bib Gourmand distinction from the Michelin Guide, a small wonder that it has become a beacon of bistronomy.
For the past decade and then some, founders, Philippe L’Hopital, and Executive Chef Jean-Charles Hospital, have been the backbone of the bistro.
Chef Hospital, a skilled and accomplished pastry and chocolate artisan who honed his craft through dedicated studies. He furthered his expertise by attending hotel school management, where he earned an honorable gold medal for his exceptional talents. His desire to learn from the best in the industry led him to work alongside internationally acclaimed legendries such as Didier Delu and Roger Souvereyns and later Rik Vandersanden.
Notably, Chef’s culinary prowess extends beyond the kitchen as he has also served in the military service in Washington DC, as the personal cook to the French Military service attaché. The Luxembourgish leg of his journey started twenty years ago when he joined Pascal Brasseur at Wengé.
Prior to joining forces to establish their own venture, both Philippe and Chef embarked on remarkable journeys, gracing the kitchens of renowned establishments globally. They honed their skills, mastered classic French techniques, learned the art of seamless orchestration of the front of the house, and pushed boundaries of creativity under the guidance of their mentors.
The shared experience of operations has fortified their bond, and together they have encountered and triumphed over numerous challenges. Their enduring friendship and aligned vision serve as the driving force behind their collective pursuit of excellence.
After a tour of the relatively new terrace outdoors, the elegant, pristine, and contemporary space, plus private dining room upstairs, we were offered to sit down to taste the clever curation of the kitchen team.
I tend to feast my eyes first and foremost on the literature that indicates seasonal offerings.
After which I will transfer my gaze to the wine list that might indicate a choice wine befitting the seasonal recommendations. It was my lucky day on both counts, whereupon I was delighted by exquisite tastes and flavors of the sea and the land.
Sommelier Alison/Alecia and Philippe gave me their nod on IGP Pays d’Hérault, Chardonnay, Cuvée Bistronome (IGP title for wines made in the Hérault department of Languedoc-Rousillon on the southern coast of France). A 100% Chardonnay with reserved notes of fruit, more terroirs driven. A refreshing change from the ubiquitous Chablis with shellfish.
We were invited to meet the team of chefs in the kitchen, in between courses, where they surprised us with a tasting demo!
Menu:
Amuse Bouche – watermelon with toasted sesame seeds, on a base of tapenade. Parmesan crisp garniture on a tart with tomato and aubergine purée
Entrée – ravioles de burrata/artichauts et bouillon barigoule (burrata stuffed ravioli, gently fried with baby artichokes and artichoke bouillon, garnish of rice paper crisps, oregano, and capers.
The ravioli was enhanced with contrast and balance working synergistically with other elements of flavors. So much so that the classic à la Barigoule was completely unrecognizable as this transformation of colors, textures, taste, and aroma was presented to us. The entire dish was a welcome surprise of lightness, nutritious and savor.
Plat – demi homard bleu gratiné/salade romaine (seasonal blue lobster from Brittany with a Caesar salad)
Plat – Côte de veau rôti/girolles, mimolette/pomme purée (veal chop veal with girolles (baby chanterelles), divine sauce, mash on side garnish of crispy chip atop
Surprise tasting (in kitchen) – maquereau à la flame/broccoli et dashi (mackerel with mint dashi sauce)
Petit Fours – almond cake
The surprise plate was assembled with a velvety puree of tender broccolini, topped with charred delicate broccolini stems for contrast of color and texture, alongside with scored-torched delicate, creamy slightly salty mackerel, adorned with pickled cauliflower florets, garnished with microgreens for a touch of vibrancy and fragrance, coupled with fresh tasting-minty dashi sauce. A savory umami infusion ensuring complementary flavors harmoniously rather than overpowering. A testament to the power of synergy, as it skillfully combined cultural context and amplification of flavor profiles.
From the vibrant colors to the final touches, Chef Jean-Charles’ attention to detail is evident in every dish. Each bite is a revelation of the French culinary heritage coupled with creative twists of modernity, not only a celebration of tradition but also a canvas for creativity. The creative twists surprised and delighted the patrons as I observed.
A great mentor to his team, we had a fabulous time in his kitchen with Sous Chef Shane, who speaks perfect English and was appointed as translator by Chef. Chef de partie Alex was most hospitable and responsible for torching the mackerel for our demo and tasting.
I enjoy unconventional pairings of global infusion. I find that this combination adds a touch of deviation and modernism to the dishes which can ultimately leave a lasting imprint on our palates.
But I think my all-time favorite is when the bounty of each season is embraced, that is essentially a dedication to seasonality that allows for the initiation of dishes which reveal the very best of nature’s offerings during the four seasons.
To our hosts Philippe and Chef Jean-Charles, for your hospitality, inclusivity, and expertise, merci beaucoup!
We look forward to going back in the fall to experience the porcinis.
Food looks awesome!