Double Take
An "It's a Small World" Tale in Mayfair
Double take: a delayed reaction to a surprising or significant situation after an initial failure to notice anything unusual (Merriam Webster Dictionary).
Prior to a business trip to London last week, we excitedly made a Saturday night reservation to dine at the recently awarded Michelin-starred Pavyllon London, the flagship restaurant at The Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane. This would be our second encounter at a Yannick Alléno establishment.
Our first excursion at Alléno’s Pavyllon in Paris, last year, was such a tantalizing experience, there was no doubt about our decision to try a second-helping….a double portion.
Yannick’s work with extractions, deconstructions, and filtration are simply mesmerizing. To those of you who are more recent readers of “Hospitality is a Lifestyle”, be sure to read this post.
I wondered if the experience would be the same, perhaps better. One tends to ere on the side of caution, especially when it comes to setting gastronomic expectations.
A Second Look
There would be more than one occasion where a “double take” would be required.
We tried several notable restaurants during the five day London excursion. The first, Scott’s Seafood in Mayfair. We had just landed, it was late, and we were famished. So, not only were we pleased to get a table, but even more so to devour beautifully prepared seafood.
As the meal came to close, we noticed a corner table of about seven guests on the other side of the restaurant. Seated at the end of the table was a figure of someone I knew. It was one of those strange moments, where you stop, then “do a double take” to make sure you are seeing right.
As we left the restaurant, I stopped by to confirm my suspicion, and sure enough it was Jean Georges Vongrichten. We smiled and then greeted each other with a hug, before taking a few minutes to catch-up.
It is indeed a small world, after all. It was almost exactly two years earlier that I had run into Jean Georges in Marrakech.
I wondered if we would have a similar experience at Pavyllon.
It’s Good to be Known
Hospitality begins with making the guest feel known. And this was precisely the effect felt as we entered Pavyllon. There was no question about whether we had a reservation, because the Host, Marcello, already knew us by name. What a welcoming start to the evening!
Warm and inviting, Marcello was interested only in our well being. As he walked us through the opulent lounge, he inquired about how we preferred to start the evening.
Pre-dinner drinks at Bar Antoine, dedicated to Yannick’s son, Antoine, was a chic space to relax. Warmly cosseted on the stylish soft blue chair, we allowed ourselves the moment to take in the entire restaurant in colors of blues and azure tones, the pearly grey carpets, woods, tropical prints, art, sculptures, chandeliers and of course the main concept.
The Bar Manager, Yuri, was kind to walk us through the entire scene. Overall, the chromaticity and glow work harmoniously, creating a complementary and inviting ambiance, that beautifully showcases the Chef’s menu.
Pavyllon opened its doors on July 1st, 2023, with interior design courtesy of acclaimed Parisian designer, Chahan Minassian. The quintessential design achievements are welcoming…elegantly accessible.
True to our first episode at Pavyllon, we were escorted to the counter. Clearly, Marcello understood what we wanted most - interaction with the team.
In the Spotlight
In the heart of this culinary symphony lies the dramatic kitchen, beckoning you with its allure. Modeled on the Paris venue, the design is embraced by a sweeping tailor-made counter, where you are guaranteed a glimpse into Chef’s inventive gastronomy.
The thirty-seat bespoke counter allows front row seats to the theater of the restaurant. Observing the chefs in action, watching the meticulous preparation and the energy and passion that goes into each dish was phenomenal.
This transparency creates a sense of engagement and connection between the diner and the kitchen, fostering a deeper connection for the culinary craft. And this ‘connection’ was achieved - just like our first time in Paris.
A Rapturous Repeat
Pavyllon’s gregarious Manager, Romain Mervelay, took great care to attend to our every need. His counter-colleague, Ash, equally convivial, was a source of guidance and accommodation to my dietary intolerances. We truly enjoyed engaging with them as the dinner developed.
It left an indelible impression on me, not simply because I was reminded of Pavyllon Paris, but also a reminder that exceptional hospitality goes beyond just creating delicious food--it lies in the ability to make every guest feel seen, heard, and welcomed!
We soon caught sight of the chef, and it was one of those moments that made us do a “double take.” At first I couldn’t quite believe it was him, but soon enough, we confirmed that it was indeed Head Chef Benjamin Ferra Y Castell who would be cooking for us, as he done so in Paris. What an incredible treat and an unbelievably fortunate opportunity to experience his culinary skills once again.
The synergy among the team members was truly awe-inspiring. Their seamless coordination and mutual understanding were evident in every dish and wine pairing that graced our table.
Six-Course Bespoke Menu
Amuse Bouche; Tartlets of Artichoke Puree, Gougères Puffs (Delicious Match with an Australian “Castagna” Ingenue 2019, Viognier)
Badaboum Organic Egg with Osciètre Caviar (robust, creamy, hints of subtle sweetness)
Red Mullet with Shiso Dressing, Soft Celeriac & Warm Foie Gras (Sweet, Vibrant, Exquisite & Delicate, Warm & Refreshing, Rich & Luxurious)
Chirachi Tartlet Niçoise Style, Artichoke Purée whipped with Toasted Sesame Oil (Herbaceous Mediterranean Tastes, Textural Contrast of Crisp Tart & Creamy & Tangy Artichoke)
Monk Fish Tail, Beurre Blanc Sauce, Black Garlic Oil, Haricot Vert White Beans (Firm & Creamy Textures, Sumptuous Sauce, Complex Earthy Notes of Black Garlic Oil)
Pan-Fried Langoustines Augrandbain, Curry Mayonnaise and Herb Salad (Nostalgia inducing)
Roasted Duck Magret, Sweet Marinated Daikon Radishes, Beetroot Sauce (Distinct & Savory)
Berries Méli-Mélo with Sugar Free Meringue, Lemon Verbena and Chartreuse Jelly, Vanilla Ice Cream, Sorrel Sorbet (Palate Cleanser, Refreshing, Citrusy, Sweet & Minty)
A La Minute Chocolaté Soufflé (Sublime & Resplendent)
Every dish was meticulously prepared and flawlessly presented, surpassing all our expectations. served to perfection.
It was not just dinner theatricals that brought fond memories, but the enthusiastic nature coupled with quick responses and extensive knowledge that made our time even more enjoyable.
Chef Benjamin took time to chat with us and we delighted in his detailed and exciting retelling about when and how the team received the Michelin call! Needless to say, it was true “double take” for him.
A Recurring Theme
After-dinner drinks at Bar Antoine counter allowed us to meet with Mixologist, Alessio, who curates unique beverages by incorporating flavor through sprays.
Alessio demonstrated his skills while sharing how he borrows creativity from Yannick’s kitchen on liquid extractions, foams, fermentations, and fruits. The menu is quite elaborate: teas, infusions, variety of sakes and Japanese whiskeys as well as an incredible list of cocktails.
Chef Yannick Alléno is renowned for mastering “Sauce…as the verb of French cuisine”, having patented his own technique on extractions, and modernizing meal sequencing by raising them to a culinary art form. Little wonder that his mastery should find its way to beverages as well.
As our experience drew to an end, we were guided by Four Seasons Host Marcello, on a tour of the private dining room upstairs. As we ascended the grand staircase, my breath caught in my throat at the splendor of the surroundings, a sight to behold.
The room was adorned with vibrant, sutured color of art that adorned the walls, creating a lively and captivating atmosphere. The chandeliers hanging from the ceiling shimmered with countless crystals, creating a dazzling display of light, and adding an air of elegance to the space.
I couldn’t help but marvel at the exquisite beauty around us. There was an ornate bar at the end of the room, a private lounge as well as a round room with a view!
Marcello’s expertise and passion for art enriched us further as he provided insights into the various pieces and the talented artists behind them.
It struck me how talented and engaged the staff at Pavyllon were. Most importantly, Pavyllon delivers on its promise to its guests, due to an incredibly talented (and well-mentored) team, as well its flare.
The Hospitality Effect
Hospitality is, at its core, an entertaining endeavor that revolves around engagement and connection - engaging conversations and captivating stories centered on the themes of food, travel, and people.
Pavyllon London is the perfect venue for participation in the essence of hospitality!
Our second time around at Pavyllon left us amazed and profoundly touched. We were treated to visual delights that enraptured our senses, while our culinary and oenological knowledge expanded, thanks to the exceptional food and wine offerings.
More importantly, we formed meaningful connections and forged new friendships that enriched our experience even further.
Under the direction of Chef Yannick, a prolific inventor and cuisi-engineer, we are witnessing remarkable transformation in the approachability of haute-cuisine.