Machu Picchu
A Discovery of Peruvian Flavors
As I wrote in last week’s edition, I have always been fascinated by the Seven Wonders of the World. I recall the amazement I felt when I perused the travel guides and history books about the great, historic sites. While I was privileged to visit the Taj Mahal twice, Machu Picchu remains on my bucket list.
My captivation with this Peruvian site and the culture of the ancient civilization is only one reason why it remains on my list. The other is a unique connection to Peru, which came about through my work.
A Tale of Two
As I began working on this article, I couldn’t help but reminisce about two of my young cooks from my time running a restaurant in San Francisco. They were both originally from Peru, I had encouraged them to curate some recipes with distinctive aromatics, vibrant colors, and palatable tastes from their homeland.
Renzo and Jorge had joined my team straight out of school, eager to hone their skills and make a name for themselves. I could see their raw talent and potential from the very beginning. Over the years, I watched them grow into confident, skilled culinarians, rising through the ranks and eventually become respected sous chefs at different prestigious establishments.
Their journey was a testament to the power of mentorship and the incredible depth of Peruvian cuisine. By tapping into their cultural roots and family recipes they were able to bring unique cuisine to our menu that enraptured our diners.
I encouraged their personal stories which fostered a sense of pride and purpose in their cookery pursuits. I noticed the camaraderie amongst the entire team in the kitchen as we worked on curating menus, talked about the importance of local fresh produce, understanding savour and textures.
We spent countless hours testing and tweaking. On plating, striving to strike the perfect balance between tradition and modernism, in order to create cohesive, compelling, and memorable dining episodes.
And finally, when I observed a true spark of passion in every dish they prepared – where each nuance seemed to tell an enthralling story – I knew we were ready to embark upon a bespoke gastronomic adventure for our guests.
We would often discuss the possibility of traveling to Peru together one day – to celebrate our success, visit with their families, and immerse ourselves in the vital roots that Renzo and Jorge both valued. The vision of that potential journey remained a source of motivation, a reminder of the profound ethnic connections that can be forged through the universal language of food!
Tastes of the Andes
As you wind down your way toward the mystical ruins of Machu Picchu, allow your taste buds to be your guide, uncovering the edible treasures that have nourished both body and spirit for the Inca and their descendants. This is more than a journey of the Wonders of the World – it is an odyssey though Peru’s vigorous and ever-evolving epicurean landscape, where the tastes of the past and present intertwine to deliver an unforgettable journey.
Peru is the undisputed food capital of South America. While Lima holds the crown as the ultimate foodie destination, Cusco has been steadily rising in the ranks and has now emerged as a South American culinary powerhouse. Whether indulging in the artful designs of renowned gourmet masters, or stumbling upon a humble street cart serving up flavor-packed delicacies, the true essence of a destination can only be experienced through an immersive exploration of its captivating gastronomy.
If you love travelling by train, try Cusco City to Aguas Calientes. You might be rewarded with a glimpse of llamas grazing freely on the lush hillsides, their wooly coats shimmering in the warm Peruvian sunlight, a tranquil almost mystical scene. You will not want to miss the enchanting Andean countryside, passing through small villages, panoramic views of towering mountain peaks, valleys, and cascading rivers along the way.
Machu Picchu
It has been a focus of international attention with regard to both the repatriation of artifacts from the site, and the preservation of the existing structures against environmental and human impact.
An Incan Citadel located in the Andes mountains above the Urubamba River Valley in Peru, Machu Picchu was designated a World Heritage site in 1983.
Originally it was a Historic Sanctuary, that was abandoned after the Spanish Invasion. The Inca Trail was used as a pilgrimage path to Machu Picchu, which was built as a royal estate for the first Inka emperor, situated on a mountain saddle overlooking the river. Intended as a place where the Inka emperor and his family could hold feasts, perform religious ceremonies, and administer the affairs of the empire.
The city was engineered to be earthquake resistant and featured a significantly advanced water system. The Inca’s construction techniques using careful stone masonry, precise cut and fitted stone blocks, use of mortar, trapezoidal shaped doors and windows, and stepped-terraced foundations also helped the structures better withstand the seismic forces compared to a flat site. Finally, the clever invention of a drainage system to exit the water from the city to avoid landslides.
To a great degree, the Incans demonstrated a nuanced understanding of seismic forces and engineering principles that was quite remarkable for their time. Their construction techniques at Machu Picchu surpassed those of contemporaneous ancient civilization in earthquake-prone regions of the world.
Central by Chef Virgilio Martinez
Voted No. 1 in the ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ list in 2023, it is a small wonder that renowned Chef Virgilio Martinez, owner of his restaurant Central, is not ready to slow down. His unwavering dedication to his Altitudinal Cuisine - a culinary exploration of Peru’s diverse ecosystems and indigenous ingredients – has his full drive and attention, as he works tirelessly to create a new kind of global cuisine.
Martinez has reached a pinnacle in his celebrated career, but he is not resting on his laurels. Instead, he finds himself asking, “Now what?” The chef who has earned global acclaim for his innovative takes on Peruvian food traditions, is constantly pushing the boundaries of what is possible in the kitchen.
Chef Martinez’s menu at Central flaunts the Andes Mountains, the Amazon Rain Forest, and the Pacific Ocean, seamlessly weaving together the distinctive aroma and elements of these diverse ecosystems.
An expression of ecosystems, cultural elements, and multiplicity of Peru
Yuyo Seaweed from Black Rocks
Shrimp, Loche Squash, Avocado from Dry Valley
Yacon Root from High Rainforest
Corn Kiwicha, Sweet Potato Leaf from Extreme Altitude
Murike Grouper, Razor Clams, Vongole from Warm Sea Current
Cecina, Arapaaima, Cassava from Amazonian Connection
Scallops, Saragassum, Cucumber from Blue-Green Ocean
Octopus, Sea Lettuce, Codium from Sea Brain Algae
Native Potato, Chaco, High Altitude Leaves from Mil Centro
Pacu, Watermelon, Coca Leaf from Amazonian Water
Pork Belly, Olluco, Callampa from Andean Forest
Chirimoya, Andean Verbena, Cauliflower from Sacred Valley
Cabuya, Muna Leaf, Qjolle from Moray
Mucilage, seeds, Shell from Chuncho Cacao
Astrid y Gastón
Astrid y Gastón is the brainchild of renowned Peruvian chef, Gastón Acurio. An ambassador for Peruvian gastronomy, Gastón has played a pivotal role in shaping Peru’s culinary identity and elevating its cuisine onto the global stage.
One of his highlights on the menu is ‘Pachamanca’. The pachamanca is a traditional earth-oven that has been used for centuries to slowly roast a variety of meats, tubers and vegetables that have been marinated in herbs and pre-Columbian spices like huacatay and chicho, then cooking them in an underground oven. Gastón offers a modern interpretation of pachamanca, unveiling the diverse tastes of Peruvian cuisine.
He teases the palates with a menu that highlights potato flower, corn pasta, sea urchins and parmesan foams.
Kjolle
Sister restaurant to Central are both owned and helmed by Chef Pia León, who is known as one of the leading figures of Peruvian culinary scene. Kjolle placed 16th in the Top 50 Restaurants in the World in 2024.
Chef León spotlights quinoa and Andean ancient grains which are integral components of Peruvian cookery, celebrated for their nutritional value and versatility.
She also focuses on ceviche dishes featuring unconventional seafood options, exotic fruits or unexpected seasonings that add depth and complexity to the dish.
There is a fascinating interconnection of the three above mentioned restaurants. A wonderful example of how Peruvian culinary artisans are able to seamlessly blend tradition and modernity in their cooking.
Central belongs to Chef Martinez, who was mentored by Chef Acurio, who owns Astrid y Gastón. Kjolle is owned by Chef Pia who is Martinez’s wife!
Peruvian Pollination
Peru is indeed thriving through mutual support and cross-pollination of ideas. The collaborative spirit is undoubtedly a key factor in continued evolution and international acclaim of Peruvian gastronomy. Their remarkable stories juxtapose the old and the new exceedingly.
Descending from the lofty heights of Machu Picchu, one carries with them a renewed sense of wonder and a deep appreciation for the power of food to bridge cultures, honor heritage and ignite the spirit of discovery.
Peru’s beacons have elevated their country’s gastronomy to new heights, and one eagerly awaits the next chapter in this fascinating gastronomic odyssey. They are also grateful in return, for the majestic ruins of Machu Picchu have long served as a wellspring of inspiration for the country’s most celebrated chefs.
As a crown jewel of the Inca Empire, Machu Picchu stands as a testament to the advanced agriculture and culinary knowledge of the Andean people. This ancient citadel offers a glimpse into the sophisticated foodways of the Inca civilization.
By honoring the gastronomic achievements of their ancestors, Peru’s culinary masters continue to push the boundaries of their nation’s celebrated cuisine.
What’s on your bucket list?
This place sounds super exciting! Definitely first on my bucket list!!
Definitely a place to be on one's bucket list!