Our autumn sojourn in Florence would not have been complete without this stop. At Saporium Firenze, Tuscany’s landscape becomes a language of contemporary cuisine.
Making its Florentine debut in March 2023, Saporium Firenze brings a distinctive perspective to Florence’s contemporary dining scene. Situated near the historic San Niccolò Tower, the restaurant connects the character of the city with the agricultural landscape of the Tuscan countryside.
Under the direction of Executive Chef Ariel Hagen, Saporium has earned both a Michelin Star for its cuisine, and a Michelin Green Star for its commitment to sustainable gastronomy, rated in regenerative agriculture and biodiversity. Its identity is closely linked to Borgo Santo Pietro, an organic estate in the Sienese countryside, where the relationship between the land, agriculture and food begins.
A simple premise, long before a dish reaches the table.
Estate to Kitchen
Borgo Santo Pietro, extends across 120 hectares, encompassing organically cultivated gardens, orchards, vineyards, livestock and artisan food provisions. Its gardens provide time-specific offerings such as vegetables, herbs and edible flowers, while the estate also yields dairy, fruit, honey and other farm selections.
This relationship extends beyond sourcing. Farmers, culinary gardeners and chefs work in collaboration, connecting cultivation with the decisions made at the stove. The kitchen’s work is therefore informed by each ingredient’s origin and availability.
The thinking finds expression in La stagione che non c’è- “The season that does not exist.”
There is no fixed seasonal calendar, the menu responds to the actual harvest and the changing conditions that determine what the land can provide. A cuisine guided by nature’s timing.
The First Pour: A Contrast Between Floral Delicacy and Smoky Depth
Before dinner, the lounge bar sets its own tone with cocktails that draw on botanical nuances, fermented depth and unconventional flavor contrasts.
Among the signature creations using sakura mancino, wild mezcal species, wild plum, there were new elements of surprise such as estate-pressed olive oil, verbena, non-alcoholic rose, house-brewed kombucha, chestnut, paranubes, lemon oleo, elderflower. Each offered a layered interplay of spice, balance of smoky, herbaceous, toasted and textural, fruit-forward complexity of developed profiles.
This sensory journey of complex drinks did more than open the evening. It revealed a curiosity about flavors that extend beyond the kitchen and into the bar programme with a clear identity of its own. Special drink imagined for me was named “Carrot Cake”!
Design & Theatre
The interiors bring together contemporary elements and classical details without losing their connection to Florence. Green accents, ferns in glazed vessels and mid-century mirrors create a layered setting that feels considered.
A large fresco depicting the Tuscan landscape provides a visual focal point near the open kitchen, bringing the countryside into the dining room. The contrast between the city outside and the rural imagery within reinforces the relationship at the heart of Saporium, an urban address informed by an agricultural estate.
The design reflects the sensibility of owners Claus and Jeanette Thorttrup, whose broader vision for Borgo Santo Pietro brings together hospitality, and translates the estate’s gastronomic vision into a Florentine setting.
Open kitchen offers a direct view of the brigade at work. Our table, thoughtfully arranged and reserved by Eric, our hotel’s curator at This Time Tomorrow proved to be an ideal choice. Its position offered an unobstructed view of the kitchen, taking in the choreography of the brigade and the polished service that accompanied each course.
“A reminder that a restaurant’s distinction is defined by the plate, the people, and the processes behind it”.
Chef Hagen’s Culinary Language
Rooted in Tuscan harvest, also extending beyond familiar regional interpretations. His approach combines season’s yield, technical precision, and a willingness to explore contrasts in texture, aroma and taste.
The menu offers tasting selections as well as à la carte choices, allowing guests to follow a longer progression or select individual dishes. Across both formats, the relationship to the taste remains central.
One notable example is the dessert Caterina De’ Medici’s Rose, a modern rendition of the time-honored Florentine zuccotto. Combining milk and Alkermes liqueur bring together a sense of local gastronomic lineage with a modern presentation. An engaging expression of how tradition can provide a starting point for Florence’s evolving perspectives.
“The ethos of an establishment extends beyond its cuisine, finding expression in its people, its service and the detailed attention extended”.
At Saporium, the service contributes to a sense of ease whilst maintaining the genuine attentiveness expected of a fine dining. The balance of true hospitality found in the details; care behind each gesture and the ease it creates for the guest. This balance matters and supports the meal without drawing attention away from it.
The Expression of Terroir
The wine programme Saporium Firenze is distinguished by both quality and breadth. Tuscan labels provide a strong regional foundation, complemented by an international selection and wines from the Borgo Santo Pietro estate.
The attention the extensive choice available by the glass is particularly noted. As well as the rare vintages from the 1980s and 1990s, a truly compelling feature for discerning wine enthusiasts.
The selection reflects an appreciation of provenance, viticultural skill, and the individuality of each wine. From the signature of its origin to the nuances revealed with age, the programme offers a fitting counterpart to Hagen’s cuisine.
We placed the wine selection entirely in the hands of Salvador, the sommelier, trusting his expertise to choose pairings that would complement each course and bring out the nuances of each dish.
Leaving on a High Note
We had the pleasure of meeting an American couple visiting Florence, during our gathering with the brigade. What began as a chance encounter turned into a wonderful conversation and shared laughter.
Before leaving, we had the opportunity to thank the full-service team, Blanca, Veronica, Dean, Raphael, and Giuditta personally. Their genuine smiles and warm response, even though it was a late evening, made that final moment especially lovely.
Chef’s vegetarian meal for me was indeed a masterclass in flavor and texture. Silken Purées, Unctuous Sauces, & Ephemeral Notes giving each course its own distinction. A Memorable Expression of Kitchen Virtuosity!
What better way to say fond farewell to Saporium Firenze?
