Spondi, Athens
Rhythm of the Dance
On top of my priority list during my recent visit to Greece was a visit to Spondi, a landmark restaurant on the Athenian gastronomic map. Unique, not only because of its tenure as one of Athen’s best restaurants for many years and the first to receive two Michelin Stars in Athens, but because of its reputation for a harmonious dance between food and service.
The unique establishment opened in nineteen ninety-six, serving up French cuisine with a Greek touch. I learned about Spondi through mutual friends in the industry and later read about their recognition in the esteemed Les Grandes Tables Du Monde 2023 Guide.
Spondi boasts a skilled and informed team, familiar in the excellence of things, sophisticated wines well stocked in their garden cellar, a lavish courtyard garden space to indulge in epicurean taste buds. These are but a few of the merits that have elevated Spondi’s reputation.
From my perspective, it is so refreshing to see elegant French fare celebrated in Greece without pretension. There was a distinct and defined relationship playing out between front and back of house.
But the feature that stands out the most is how the Spondi team grasped the distinction between service and hospitality. In the words of one of the most successful restauranteur, Danny Meyer, in his seminal book, Setting the Table (a must read for anyone in the hospitality industry):
“Service is the technical delivery of a product. Hospitality is how the delivery of that product makes its recipient feel. Service is a monologue…Hospitality, on the other hand, is a dialogue.”
From the outset we were treated like true guests. The “dialogue” had begun the moment we entered the beautiful establishment.
Christian Potelle, Manager extraordinaire, met us with a smile and wasted no time in escorting us to the kitchen to meet the “dream team”, helmed by Chef de Cuisine, Kostantinos Gagriilids.
The art of cooking is a magical fusion of exceptional ingredients and culinary talent. Achieving this harmonious alchemy is no easy feat, but when it is mastered, it transcends ordinary adventures and transports us to a higher realm. And the “dream team” did not disappoint.
Enchanted by the Delicious Story
A “discovery menu”, sometimes known as a tasting or degustation menu, usually has inherently small portions. Table participation is typically required for this simultaneous enjoyment. A great way to relate to the chef’s skill and range, allowing for the guests to ask questions as they enjoy new flavor profiles, character, and visuals. Essentially, it is a story on a series of plates.
Spondi offers full seasonal menus. There are currently nine courses offered in this category, not to forget a symphony of tastes via a trio of amuse bouche which captured my full attention.
An Aperitif “King of Corinth” (champagne, raisin syrup and aged rum) is suggested and followed with Ammousa Beer (Patras)/ Onion with Aged Mimolette, Smoked Eel/Sablé/Parsley/Ponzu, Potato ice cream with sorrel cream.
The a la carte menu offers four starters and main courses. We were introduced to smooth textures, and intense notes of cocoa, tangy and earthy molasses like sweetness of black garlic, French classic delicacies infused with elderflower and adorned with milky and nutty fresh green almonds (a seasonal delicacy). Rounded Cockles (a distant cousin of clams)/wild strawberry (complex notes of rose and violet)/Green Shiso (Japanese mint).
It was important for me to witness the thought process in incorporating Greek ingredients while infusing them with French influence and techniques. The lamb option on the menu, designed by Executive Chef Consultant Arnaud Bignon, stood out and we were not disappointed. The classic French techniques elevated the Mediterranean ingredients and of course my absolute favorite one here was the hypothesis of food pairing; black garlic with chickpeas and with lamb!
The grand finale to a superb meal, the crescendo that leaves a lasting impression on our taste buds. A rhapsody in berries, a tango of citrus, an enchanting dance of textures complemented with fruit, yogurt, coconut, lemongrass, horseradish, yuzu, black sesame, grappa, lemon verbena and bergamot.
The symphony of sweets was coupled with a Château Sauternes Guiraud 2006; floral bouquet, tangerine, nectarine and notes of honey. Temperature is a key factor with Sauternes far more than decanting. Spondi’s cellar is clearly well maintained, the lush, lingering, and silky sauternes was the pièce de résistance, the special note that corresponded with both (the second one was black sesame/coconut/horseradish/yuzu) our desserts.
Enthralled by the “Dance”
Gastronomy of the highest is where great food starts with great product. Take the simple and make it sublime. Chef Kostantinos and his team executed brilliantly.
However, what truly brought the meal together was the “dialogue” that continued from the moment we arrived, until the last drop was finished.
Of course, Christian continued to look after us with care and attention. His easy going nature and humble approach to service removed any idea that a “manager” couldn’t serve a guest as well. On the contrary, he led the way.
And at each stage of the meal, the synchronized service was on display, transforming a meal into a multisensorial art performance.
Manos, our Sommelier, possessed a mastery of Greek wines (and a clever sense of humor that we enjoyed all evening). We tend to gravitate towards locally produced wines when we travel. And thankfully we were in the hands of an expert.
He recommended a lucious white from Santorini, Nyxtepi (in English, Nyxteri). Nychteri is a late harvest wine with a deep lemon color and with golden hues Nose: Complex, with ripe citrus, honey, nuts and herbs aromas. I am still amazed by the growing methods of Santorini wines.
George, soon to be a sommelier, was proficient and patient, enjoying the opportunity to discuss more Greek wines with us while refilling our glasses.
I noticed how other guests are greeted warmly and guided to their tables with poise and attentiveness. Each staff member shares their expertise and orchestrates a harmonious dining affair. The choreography of communication behind the scenes is a well-rehearsed system that facilitates the synchronization.
Our server clearly understood the menu and was able to talk effortlessly about the products and cooking techniques used for each dish. A crucial part of the “dance” is the mastery of the menu whereupon staff members possess in-depth knowledge of the dishes, ingredients, and preparation methods, allowing them to guide guests through the culinary journey.
Like skilled performers they recommend pairings, offer suggestions, and cater to individual preferences, creating a scenario that captivates the senses.
Impeccable timing is everything, staff orchestrates the flow of service to perfection. Courses are served promptly; drinks are refilled seamlessly, and empty plates are whisked away discreetly. And our courses were timed to perfection!
Spondi servers were detail-oriented, observant, and intuitive. They anticipate the needs of guests while remaining unobtrusive. They are courteous, friendly, and welcoming. Quite knowledgeable, efficient, consistent and without a shred of pretentiousness.
I truly enjoyed the hospitality - a sincere dialogue - received by Spondi and their team. And I highly recommend a visit to Spondi when you are next in Athens. We will most certainly be visiting again soon.
Will certainly visit Athens and try out Spondi thank you for sharing your insights on their food and services.
wow the food looks absolutely amazing, thks for introducing Spondi!